India II: Rajasthan 👑

Dear Reader, 

I come to you from a train en route to Delhi, which will conclude my trip to India. However, this article will tell you all about my days in Rajasthan. 

Arriving in Jaipur was really interesting. You could totally tell that this is a very different part of India to Uttar Pradesh and Bihar. Everything appeared more cosmopolitan - there were more modern shops, the streets were wider and seemed cleaner, though they weren't really. And there was less of meandering bovine 🐄 

My ride past all the jewellery stores, pink/terracota buildings which lends Jaipur the name of The Pink City, the old regal architecture - it was a new flavour entirely 🩷 

I did not like the man who greeted me in my hostel - he definitely had the creepy vibes going on. However, everyone else there was great. I finally got to meet some other travelers and share stories. 

The next day, I got up super early to explore Amber Fort. I decided to go here instead of Nahargarh as I planned to come back for that, which I didn't end up doing. 

Amber Fort at sunrise, with minimal gormless tourists and photoshoots, was really something. I had a lovely chai before I went inside, and spent hours running through the secret passageways, getting lost, looking into every old room and reliving how I used to be as a kid, with the desire to explore everywhere, imagining who walked these corridors in the past. 

As I was coming back down from the fort, I narrowly escaped being flattened by several elephants, whose Mahouts did not see me, too busy steering them away from the relentless vendors, who were themselves hassling the ignorant tourists that were too lazy to walk 10 minutes from the bottom to the top, and too uninformed to have done any basic research into elephant riding... 

For those of you who may not know, don't ride elephants. It's cruel, it's unnecessary, and they hate it. You need only look into their eyes to see the extreme misery.

Poor beauty

Anyway, happy that the elephants had spared me, I then took my train to Jodhpur. There was no first class, so I stayed in 2nd class, wary of my safety, until I was two hours in and realised that everyone around me was normal and nice, and that a lot of the warnings I had been given about train safety were rather hyperbolic 🚂 

After watching the first good Christmas movie I've seen in a while, I arrived in Jodphur. My uber driver was a knob, but had a great moustache, so I forgave him. I ended up having to walk uphill 10 minutes to my guest house, and stopped by a tiny stall with the most colourful bags and purses and fabrics 👛

Of course I bought lots of souvenirs there from the friendly seller, who gave me local prices, thus incentivising me to buy more...

🩵

My hostel owner, Heena and her whole family were very kind. After visiting another fort, this one being Mehrangarh, I walked down to the nearby Jaswanth Thada, where I sat beneath the frangipanis and bathed in the water of calm and contentment. 

I met a nice couple, with whom I could only communicate via Google Translate. They were very endearing and friendly. Shortly after, I was attacked by a drunk man, and the same couple made sure I got back safely to my guest house. What's more, everyone around came to help, once again showing the true kind nature of Indians 🪷 

I fell for the Blue City and stayed an extra night, instead of returning to Jaipur 💙 

I used this time to take a desert safari. My very nice and professional driver took me first to the ancient Mandore ruins and gardens, which were exquisite. 

We then arrived in Osian and visited the temple there, which gave us a stunning view for miles. 

I met an affable camel on the way and bonded with him en route to a traditional old farming village, where I volunteered in the fields for a bit, getting myself in a workout to build up an appetite. 

There was another little family there from Indore, who taught me a lot about the country's history and how Indians really feel now towards their former conquerors. It was fascinating and heartbreaking.

Sitting beneath the stars in the calm countryside, with the occasional utterance from one of the camels, was a welcoming experience away from the chaos of the city ⭐ 🌙 

***

As my flight to Amritsar was cancelled anyway, I ended up getting the bus to there, which thus far, I had managed to avoid, following the advice of many. 

However, with no other option, I found myself a few hours later, dozing on the top bunk at the very back of the bus, my legs near my head, so as to make room for my backpack. And it was not a bad 15 hour ride! 

And so concludes the second half of my Indian tale. Rajasthan- the largest region geographically in India- was really something 🐘🐫🐪

The final chapter will cover Punjab and the last day in Delhi 🇮🇳

See you soon, Dearest Reader...

India Part I: Delhi Diaries & Spiritual Persuits

Dear Reader, 

👑

I come to you from a very hot bus, en route to Amritsar. 5 out of 15 hours journey completed 💤 

As I find myself in an abundance of time and have exhausted the dire holiday section on Netflix, I turn to you, Dear Reader, in attempt to share with you the first chunk of the unbelievable 10 days I have just lived ✨ 

How so much adventure can be packed into one week, I do not know. 

***

As I said goodbye to the smiling star at the airport, I felt a mental state oscillating between unease and excitement. 

I sat beside a lovely woman on the airplane, who, along with myself, became the favourite of one of the male flight attendants. 

I know what you're thinking - creep... But actually, he was just friendly, and snuck us an extra water bottle and even some chocolates from Business Class... Okay. It will be a good trip, I decided immediately. 

And I now have another friend in Mauritius, and I hope to see her when I return next year... 🦤 

Of course I got lost as soon as I left the airport and wandered around looking for the pickup spot. Of course I gave the uber driver the wrong address. Of course I brought only Summer clothes and started to lose feeling in my toes almost instantly. 

Thankfully, the stars had aligned, and an acquaintance from yoga in Mauritius led me to a warm and wonderful soul, Kanchana, and her enchanting daughter Akshi. 

Kanchana made sure that I was warm, had lovely homemade chai, my own bed, discovered the best tourist spots in Delhi, and tried some great food. What's more, when I gave her my shopping list, she drove all around the city to ensure I would find everything. 

Yoginis United ♥️

Sheltered in the south of Delhi, I felt that the stereotypes of this city as a polluted and dangerous mess, were unfair. I found the constant horns tolerable and could not (and still cannot) get over the abundance of enormous cows meandering in the middle of every road. 

I take pride in the fact I was hit by a tuktuk (small bump, but still a brag), I am delighted to have got a beautiful saree at almost local price (mostly Kanchana's input), and that I was able to make it through the markets with minimal hassle, thanks to being accompanied by a fearless local lady. 

But mostly, I was so overjoyed that my dream was finally taking form, that my time in India had at last begun. 

***

Okay, before I get to the spirituality, I have to go to the complete other side of hardcore tourist mode...

20 hours of Agra...

Yes, I know it's no longer cool to like the Taj Mahal, as it's a tourist trap, as it's not even the finest Moghul architecture, which is of itself, representative to many of pure Hindu suffering and oppression. However, my mum visited it twice and told me it was astonishing. 

It is worth noting that my mother and Shah Jahan shared an obsession for marble. But I have to say, that I also found it to be exquisite.

Having taken inspiration from my Belgian namesake, who visited earlier this year, I was absolutely determined to wear my saree here. 

After 1 hour of incessant fumbling, countless loops of the same YouTube reels and multiple prayers to all the deities, I miraculously tied the endless material correctly and set off. The staff nearly fell of their seats when they saw me, adorned in the bangles from the store down the road, which would subsequently snap just hours later 🥻

I have never had some many people compliment me, hold the door and of course, when I arrived at the palace, I posed for no less than 300 photos... None of them mine. 

As a person who grew into her face at 18 and enjoys food too much, as well as having a forehead that fits the entire palm of an adult man's hand, I humbly accepted every kind and respectful compliment granted to me. I have never felt like such a princess... Aside from when I'm with my prince 😉 

So yes, the Taj was great, for photos and for my self confidence. I felt a very strong connection with my mum, admiring how brave she must have been to travel here so many years ago, without google maps, data and uber. 

The staff in the guest house even brought me a heater when I thought I might die of cold, and I was treated to a candlelight dinner. It was a lovely few hours in the city. Oh and Agra fort was cool too!

***

I was up super early again the next day to head to Banaras. I enjoyed being pampered on the express train, once again receiving a rose 🌹 

However, the train decided to stop at Prayagraj, 2 hours from Varanasi... Thank goodness uber inter-city is a thing. 

So after multiple traffic jams and closer to a 4 hour journey, I arrived at my guest house in the terrifyingly ancient and chaotic city. 

I instantly expected to die, given the intimidating narrow streets, however the attentive owner came, once he had finished his lunch, and assured me that the streets were safe. I vowed to not walk after dark to be safe, only to find myself doing that very thing 4 hours later. This did end up with me buying 100g of monkey nuts, which I got roadside for 20rs. How nuts?! 🥜 

The spiritual displays along the ghats were absolutely incredible, but what I loved more, was my walk at sunset along the Ganges river, stopping to sip the greatest chai I ever tasted (also at a whopping 20rs) and basking in the unspoken energetic charm in the air. 

Do I like that a I accidentally witnessed a body being burned, no, I do not. But I love the wonderful send off to the next life that people bestow on their loved ones here 🪷 

The next day, I was up even earlier. Why? Because I listened to my eccentric client and decided to book a day tour to Bodh Gaya. And it was the best decision ever. What was not so good, was my driver. 

As a solo female traveller, I expected more of this, but this driver was inappropriate. No details are necessary but I am thankful that

1. I was prepared and had plenty of battery 

2. Having bought 4 scarves the previous night, after meeting one of the nicest and most honest vendors in the world, I was able to wrap myself up like an enormous condom, thus shielding myself from his advances and looks. 

Lesson: if you absolutely must take a long drive, have it arranged by a trusted FEMALE from your accommodation. They get it. 

However, I refuse to let misogynist turds ruin my life, and I must say that I still look back on that day with a warm smile. If anything, the experience made it a true pilgrimage. 

With no phones allowed, I am thankful to not have had the incessant ignorance of photographers infiltrating the spiritual significance of this place. I won't go in to detail of my personal experience there. All I will say is that if you are spiritual, you should go, as you will love it. 

Getting to Varanasi's main temple was a pilgrimage in itself, with tourists only being permitted entry at a certain door, which was the hardest to locate. I found solace in Annapurna temple, where I was blessed by some elderly men who gave me some love on behalf of Ganesh 🕉️

Caution: don't let people paint your face- they want money. My eye contact, which was supposed to invite the painter to move out of my way, in fact served as an affirmative for him to draw over my third eye. 

I had a very generous breakfast served by the staff at my guest house, with their devoted attendance to every need. I spoke with a really interesting local guide, who admired my painted head. I played air cricket with the older attendant, who reminds me so much of my best friend's dad 🏏 

And so I believe as I reflect on what turned out to be my only domestic flight, I should conclude Part 1 of my fable. 

After many cows, many coughs, many photos and many meditations, my time in Uttar Pradesh and Bihar was over 🐮 

When we come back, I will recount the next part of my journey: The Richness of Rajasthan 👑💎 

Prairie d'épines

About 9 months ago, a fairy paid a visit to the temple of an Elf 🧚‍♀️🧝‍♀️

She read, painted and even practiced some magic.

Before leaving, the Elf told her to build a garden, so that the fairy may watch the butterflies gather 🦋🦋 

The fairy thought to herself, "Even when surrounded in the meadow, most of my dances are alone." 

At that moment, a gentle brush of paint stroked the fairy's spine 🎨 

***

Such wonderful memories of flying through the mountains alone, taking in every corner of beauty. To be summoned from a lavender field, on an unexpected adventure 🪻 

Magical moments of connections, which could only be found in this version of this world. Reunited with daisies, discovering sunflowers and stumbling on a narcissus... 

...Finding peace in places of despair, light in the dark, radiance among the shadows... 🖤 

...As the water, so many times, from so many sides, cleanses the fairy's wings. 

*** 

To realise that all the colours of the rainbow are there, even in the shade of reason. You need only open your eye. 

Her wings no longer feel heavy... So she dances toward the next forest, counting the red birds, following the frangipanis which line the path ahead. 

She reaches the home of the wandering soul and is pleased with the abundance of the earth around her, the buds lined up perfectly, some leaves already beginning to blossom. Some are not quite right, just yet, but the others are growing well 🌱

She sits by one of her favourite trees, the Banyan, which overlooks a garden of snakes. 

She contemplates the last few months, the longest time that this fairy has spent in one place since the crops failed, all the way back in 2021...

Comforted by the warmth of her hosts, knowing that she will always have a friend here ♥️

Grateful for the teachers and students she met and will see again in a new season 🩷

Longing for the embrace of sisters she sees only from a distance, far away, but thankful for their love all the same 💞

Melting in the kindness of a star, where calm waters soothe the fairy, and adds shimmering crystals to her wings. 

✨

Just around the corner, not so far from the melting pot, she hears calamity and chaos, bouncing around in a harmony of strange smells and colours, like a rainbow on steroids. She smiles, ready to embrace her new adventure, with strong wings and open palms 🪷

The sun begins to sleep as the skies are painted golden. As the fairy carefully meanders past the thorns, admiring the budding roses, there is a gentle rustle.

The serpent reminds her of what she knows, so she dances on, through time and space, with brighter smiles than before.

As the dusk settles in the air, the faint noise continues. 

Among the tall grass, a little caterpillar tramples along towards a bud, as a shooting star softly strokes the night sky 💫