Letters Of A Gallivantress
A little view into the realms of wonder, exploration and magic ✨ With tips and insights into the nomadic life ๐ด
Thursday, February 6, 2025
The Second Letter
Sunday, January 26, 2025
Ripples
Dear Reader,
Endless chirps, constant hums. Rustling. And the dampness- you can almost hear it.
Yes.
I come to you, from the jungle.
Though, not so different from a Slice of Heaven. Or perhaps Lombok... ๐ค
...The same smells as I disembarked the ferry, the familiar haze as the sun sets. The greetings from locals...
...The same lost souls wandering, hidden but always there.
...
Waking up this morning, to heavy rain, I thought my 8 hour bus journey was in vain (supposed to be 4), and that I would spend my time here secluded in my little hut.
But against all odds, the rain stopped, and so I took advantage of this change and made a beeline for the beach.
As I dipped my feet in the water, admiring the shells, gentle sparkles of sunlight slowly appeared across the sky.
I passed the locals by the sea, happy families, kids swimming, many smiles. I walked past a kayak and realised that I could complete what I planned to do after all.
So I left my valuables (not recommended travel advice), in the trusting hands of the universe, having decided that it was less risky than me keeping my bag dry, and I set off full steam ahead.
I stopped at Palau Giam, did some snorkeling without a snorkel, and saw a few fish in murky post-rain water. I also passed by a quirky Buddhist temple, with colours and architecture that made it look like something out of Alice in Wonderland, and took me back briefly to The Elf. Oh the parallels ๐
As boatfuls of locals went by, waving and gawking at the overexcited white blob bounding across the water on her own, I realised something: I love kayaking. I thought about my journey in lakes Taupo and Tekapo, about this time last year, and how much fun I find this random activity.
I want to buy a kayak and take myself around all my favourite islands. But it won't fit in my backpack...
Anyway, to finish off what was a surprisingly successful day, I went to "Daddy's Cafe" - not as creepy as it sounds- and watched the sunset. Lovely.
Pankor island has been a most welcome change to Kuala Lumpur's typical chaotic Asian city vibes.
But KL is also a great place. Chinatown especially. Great food, from all over the world. Everything is affordable, apart from massages given by tiny women who want to paralyse you.
The bird park and butterfly sanctuaries were both incredible. An indulgence of colour, beautiful nature at its finest, and all within one enormous park ๐ฆ ๐ฆ
The National Museum was also great, giving me insight into a country that I never heard very much about. Another melting pot, a strategically important place, and historically rich.
But my favourite spot in KL so far, must be the Batu caves. I never expected to see temples built, and perfectly preserved, within caves.
I paid next to nothing to enter. There is information on all the deities inside, whilst there is even a mini reptile park in one of them! Unfortunately, the reptiles, including my beloved turtles, were not well cared for. The staff seem harmless, but the conditions were very poor. It did however, allow me to see these beautiful animals closer, and I appreciate that ๐
After being treated to a cultural dance performance, I made my way to the main temple. Up around 400 steep steps. In the middle of the day. It was worth it for the view and the enormity of the cave. However, I did have to part with the rest of my iced tea on the descent, as it was stolen by a monkey ๐
...
Malaysia feels so familiar to me that it's eerie. Maybe because I've been to Singapore so many times as a child. Perhaps because there are so many similarities to Indonesia, notably the language.
Really, I think that it just feels safe here. There are so many cultures but everyone is welcome. Now I understand some regions are more dangerous. But this part, it feels good.
And here, I'm closer to where magic is born. I feel it in the air. Every essence of my being, moving forward. I wonder where the roots will form... ✨
***
With only a few days of solo travel left before I return to the melting pot, I am lost in thought.
As I watch the evening sky reflect off the water, the timid ripples growing ever more courageous, I feel a perfect blanket of warmth on my shoulders. The pain has shifted and everything feels lighter. Even as the shadows dance around me, I look to the water and feel peaceful. I glance at the trees and feel strength, and I gaze at the sky and feel wonder.
Dear Reader, hear the birds in the sky above you. Notice the colours in every flower. Dip your feet in the water, wherever you may be and watch the ripples. Remember how delicate movements can change the flow, be it a breath, a smile, or even a swipe... ๐
Wednesday, January 22, 2025
A Kiss from the Ocean of Mystery
Monday, January 6, 2025
India III: Punjab & the Last Day
Dear Reader,
How I have missed you.
I come to you from Sydney, where shadows take the form of raindrops this morning, and so I write, to you.
As Christmas days are so busy, filled with friends, love and laughter, I have taken time to reflect on India and the different feelings I have since then.
Arriving at 4am in Amritsar had its own set of problems, and for the first time, I prepared myself for a fight. It wasn't necessary in the end, but serves to remind us all... Always choose the safest option when travelling, especially alone. Regardless of gender.
Winding my way through the narrow streets, admiring the perfectly coiffured moustaches of practically every man around me, and being careful to avoid the sharp spears, which Punjabi men may carry by law. Thanks colonial Britain for that entrenched horror.
Devastated at the total destruction of my favourite bangles, which were made of glass and had mostly shattered by the time I arrived here, I decided to hunt for more- not a difficult task when you're meandering through the street of the bridal market.
I happened upon a tiny stall, owned by an old man with a face full of character, who patiently opened up about 50 packets of bangles for me to gawk at. It's safe to say I replenished my collection.
That afternoon, I was able to attend the bizarre border ceremony, where Indian and Pakistani border force security partake daily in an elaborate dance, march, and a lot of growling.
I have never seen anything so hilarious in my life.
If you ever get the chance to go, you should. It's a unique spectacle, but although it was fun, and I ended up dancing with one of the Austrian girls from my hostel and about 100 Indian women, the whole thing does have dark undertones, signifying the temperate past between these nations.
The next day, I had to make my last stop on the tourist train- The Golden Palace ✨
Oh baby, this place is something else. Just like the Taj, it's becoming cooler to dislike this kind of spot, but I don't give a hoot. It's absolutely stunning, houses the biggest kitchen in the world, it's free and it's spiritually powerful.
Anywhere that allows anyone at all, from any walk of life, to come in, eat as much as they like, and leave, without asking for anything. That is a place of humanity. Well done, Siqs.
Shout out to Vikram, Amritsar's nicest old man and best tuktuk driver. May he find is old friend from so long ago.
♥️
...
Most famous old market in Delhi.
Old Delhi.
Chaos.
Finding it was hard, getting out was harder.
Worth it for the amazing bargains and great vibes ๐ชท
Thankfully, I had a motorbike rider to take me back to my hotel. He waited for me, drove me through traffic and all for 50 rupees. He deserved 5000.
That ride was probably the most impactful. The poverty. The bleeding animals with their glazed eyes. The people fighting over some wheat. Everything decaying. And 4 hours later, I was walking through Khan market, where a macaron costs 20,000 rupees. It's not right.
๐
Thankfully, I ended on a positive note, by seeing the wonderful Kanchana and her sweet Akshi that evening.
Their warmth is reflected in the hearts of most Indians I met.
Weather it's the stranger helping me to choose sweets, the man who made sure I got local prices for monkey nuts, the Guest House host who called her driver 1000 times to ensure I was safe, the couple who walked with me, the people on the train, the staff in the hostels, making sure I was warm. Kindness for karma.
So I will write to you again soon, to tell you all about Australia, the peace and love ๐
Thursday, December 19, 2024
India II: Rajasthan ๐
Dear Reader,
I come to you from a train en route to Delhi, which will conclude my trip to India. However, this article will tell you all about my days in Rajasthan.
Arriving in Jaipur was really interesting. You could totally tell that this is a very different part of India to Uttar Pradesh and Bihar. Everything appeared more cosmopolitan - there were more modern shops, the streets were wider and seemed cleaner, though they weren't really. And there was less of meandering bovine ๐
My ride past all the jewellery stores, pink/terracota buildings which lends Jaipur the name of The Pink City, the old regal architecture - it was a new flavour entirely ๐ฉท
I did not like the man who greeted me in my hostel - he definitely had the creepy vibes going on. However, everyone else there was great. I finally got to meet some other travelers and share stories.
The next day, I got up super early to explore Amber Fort. I decided to go here instead of Nahargarh as I planned to come back for that, which I didn't end up doing.
Amber Fort at sunrise, with minimal gormless tourists and photoshoots, was really something. I had a lovely chai before I went inside, and spent hours running through the secret passageways, getting lost, looking into every old room and reliving how I used to be as a kid, with the desire to explore everywhere, imagining who walked these corridors in the past.
As I was coming back down from the fort, I narrowly escaped being flattened by several elephants, whose Mahouts did not see me, too busy steering them away from the relentless vendors, who were themselves hassling the ignorant tourists that were too lazy to walk 10 minutes from the bottom to the top, and too uninformed to have done any basic research into elephant riding...
For those of you who may not know, don't ride elephants. It's cruel, it's unnecessary, and they hate it. You need only look into their eyes to see the extreme misery.
Anyway, happy that the elephants had spared me, I then took my train to Jodhpur. There was no first class, so I stayed in 2nd class, wary of my safety, until I was two hours in and realised that everyone around me was normal and nice, and that a lot of the warnings I had been given about train safety were rather hyperbolic ๐
After watching the first good Christmas movie I've seen in a while, I arrived in Jodphur. My uber driver was a knob, but had a great moustache, so I forgave him. I ended up having to walk uphill 10 minutes to my guest house, and stopped by a tiny stall with the most colourful bags and purses and fabrics ๐
Of course I bought lots of souvenirs there from the friendly seller, who gave me local prices, thus incentivising me to buy more...
My hostel owner, Heena and her whole family were very kind. After visiting another fort, this one being Mehrangarh, I walked down to the nearby Jaswanth Thada, where I sat beneath the frangipanis and bathed in the water of calm and contentment.
I met a nice couple, with whom I could only communicate via Google Translate. They were very endearing and friendly. Shortly after, I was attacked by a drunk man, and the same couple made sure I got back safely to my guest house. What's more, everyone around came to help, once again showing the true kind nature of Indians ๐ชท
I fell for the Blue City and stayed an extra night, instead of returning to Jaipur ๐
I used this time to take a desert safari. My very nice and professional driver took me first to the ancient Mandore ruins and gardens, which were exquisite.
We then arrived in Osian and visited the temple there, which gave us a stunning view for miles.
I met an affable camel on the way and bonded with him en route to a traditional old farming village, where I volunteered in the fields for a bit, getting myself in a workout to build up an appetite.
There was another little family there from Indore, who taught me a lot about the country's history and how Indians really feel now towards their former conquerors. It was fascinating and heartbreaking.
Sitting beneath the stars in the calm countryside, with the occasional utterance from one of the camels, was a welcoming experience away from the chaos of the city ⭐ ๐
***
As my flight to Amritsar was cancelled anyway, I ended up getting the bus to there, which thus far, I had managed to avoid, following the advice of many.
However, with no other option, I found myself a few hours later, dozing on the top bunk at the very back of the bus, my legs near my head, so as to make room for my backpack. And it was not a bad 15 hour ride!
And so concludes the second half of my Indian tale. Rajasthan- the largest region geographically in India- was really something ๐๐ซ๐ช
The final chapter will cover Punjab and the last day in Delhi ๐ฎ๐ณ
See you soon, Dearest Reader...
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