Dear Reader,
How I have missed you.
I come to you from Sydney, where shadows take the form of raindrops this morning, and so I write, to you.
As Christmas days are so busy, filled with friends, love and laughter, I have taken time to reflect on India and the different feelings I have since then.
Arriving at 4am in Amritsar had its own set of problems, and for the first time, I prepared myself for a fight. It wasn't necessary in the end, but serves to remind us all... Always choose the safest option when travelling, especially alone. Regardless of gender.
Winding my way through the narrow streets, admiring the perfectly coiffured moustaches of practically every man around me, and being careful to avoid the sharp spears, which Punjabi men may carry by law. Thanks colonial Britain for that entrenched horror.
Devastated at the total destruction of my favourite bangles, which were made of glass and had mostly shattered by the time I arrived here, I decided to hunt for more- not a difficult task when you're meandering through the street of the bridal market.
I happened upon a tiny stall, owned by an old man with a face full of character, who patiently opened up about 50 packets of bangles for me to gawk at. It's safe to say I replenished my collection.
That afternoon, I was able to attend the bizarre border ceremony, where Indian and Pakistani border force security partake daily in an elaborate dance, march, and a lot of growling.
I have never seen anything so hilarious in my life.
If you ever get the chance to go, you should. It's a unique spectacle, but although it was fun, and I ended up dancing with one of the Austrian girls from my hostel and about 100 Indian women, the whole thing does have dark undertones, signifying the temperate past between these nations.
The next day, I had to make my last stop on the tourist train- The Golden Palace ✨
Oh baby, this place is something else. Just like the Taj, it's becoming cooler to dislike this kind of spot, but I don't give a hoot. It's absolutely stunning, houses the biggest kitchen in the world, it's free and it's spiritually powerful.
Anywhere that allows anyone at all, from any walk of life, to come in, eat as much as they like, and leave, without asking for anything. That is a place of humanity. Well done, Siqs.
Shout out to Vikram, Amritsar's nicest old man and best tuktuk driver. May he find is old friend from so long ago.
♥️
...
Most famous old market in Delhi.
Old Delhi.
Chaos.
Finding it was hard, getting out was harder.
Worth it for the amazing bargains and great vibes 🪷
Thankfully, I had a motorbike rider to take me back to my hotel. He waited for me, drove me through traffic and all for 50 rupees. He deserved 5000.
That ride was probably the most impactful. The poverty. The bleeding animals with their glazed eyes. The people fighting over some wheat. Everything decaying. And 4 hours later, I was walking through Khan market, where a macaron costs 20,000 rupees. It's not right.
🐄
Thankfully, I ended on a positive note, by seeing the wonderful Kanchana and her sweet Akshi that evening.
Their warmth is reflected in the hearts of most Indians I met.
Weather it's the stranger helping me to choose sweets, the man who made sure I got local prices for monkey nuts, the Guest House host who called her driver 1000 times to ensure I was safe, the couple who walked with me, the people on the train, the staff in the hostels, making sure I was warm. Kindness for karma.
So I will write to you again soon, to tell you all about Australia, the peace and love 💕
